Apple has a real crowd-pleaser on its hands with. With modern processors and a new retina screen, plus a redesigned unibody and Touch ID, it’s definitely gathering some interest from fans of the original. But what about the MacBook, the oddly in-between redesign that goes without an adjective? Introduced in 2015, this teeny-tiny 12-inch laptop was ostensibly the successor to the original Air, re-using the name of the old plastic entry-level Mac laptops for a sleek unibody design powered by Intel’s low-power Core M series.

Apple still sells the 12-inch MacBook despite going more than a year without a hardware upgrade. Air Apparent Let’s look at this from a purely technical perspective, and specifically at the entry models in both the and lines. Here are the specs for both. Note that, despite being a year older, the smaller MacBook is still $100 more expensive. As you can see, the only real advantage that the smaller MacBook has is a larger base SSD. That’s arguably offset by the MacBook Air’s new Touch ID feature, but those that really want more storage can upgrade to a 256GB M.2 for a hefty two hundred bucks.

Even then, you’re getting a bigger, better screen, a much faster processor, better battery life, an extra USB-C/Thunderbolt port, and a more comfy keyboard, plus TouchID, for a hundred bucks more. It seems that, at just below or just above the current entry price, the Air beats the smaller MacBook in every way. Let’s say you have the budget for a better Mac, but or the questionable utility of that Touchbar.

Here are a couple of upgraded MacBooks, both Air and non-Air, weighing in around the $1800 mark, boosting several key specs. Again, fairly similar on paper. The MacBook gets access to an i7 processor, but it’s last year’s model, and with a slower standard clock and an identical “turbo boost” speed to the new MacBook Air’s upgraded Core i5. For fifty bucks more, you get all the advantages of the refreshed MacBook Air design, plus double the storage. The smaller MacBook can’t be configured with anything bigger than that 256GB drive, while the Air can fit a capacious 1.5TB SSD inside if you’re willing to pay an extra grand. Who’s the MacBook For Now? So where does this leave the 12-inch MacBook?

True, it’s smaller than the new MacBook Air, as it was smaller than the original 14-inch Air. It’s a hair thinner at only.51 inches, about an inch more narrow and half an inch shorter in terms of depth.

Amusingly, it’s about three-quarters of a pound lighter than the MacBook Air, meaning that Apple’s new “Air” laptop is only the second-lightest in its lineup. But this is, almost literally, splitting hairs. Both the MacBook and the MacBook Air are so tiny that making a decision based on which one is even tinier seems less than wise. And in the case of the base model, it’s less than frugal, too. That’s an odd position since the “MacBook” started out as the less premium option beloved by undergrad students and those new to Apple’s expensive ecosystem.

To be blunt, buying a MacBook over a MacBook Air right now is a poor choice. Unless you absolutely must have that extra inch or extra pound, there’s no reason not to go for the newer design. What Happens Next? The revival of the Air name, even if it never technically went away, is telling. In an alternate universe we might have had the same trio of Mac laptops we do now, with the names re-arranged: the MacBook Pro at the high end with the most robust hardware options, the new MacBook Air more simply called the “MacBook” to line up with the original plastic models as an entry option, and the current MacBook labeled the Air as a machine that compromises a few of Apple’s finer design points for ultimate portability.

But we don’t. The Air was revived in a flashy New York City event, with barely a mention of the MacBook that’s not even three years old. And the Air keeps its original moniker, despite being marginally bigger and heavier than the MacBook. I think it’s fair to estimate that the 12-inch MacBook introduced in 2015 is not long for this world. It was greeted with trepidation upon its introduction, with reviewers praising the tiny dimensions and bright screen, but less happy with a single expansion port and an uncomfortable keyboard.

Many Apple fans either opted for the more expensive Pro models or just hung on to their aging MacBook Airs for a while longer, longing for the Retina upgrade that Apple delivered today. So the new MacBook Air gets all the fresh hardware while the MacBook has to make do with 2017 specs, and the new machine is cheaper or comparably priced while more or less completely replacing the niche the smaller design fills. It wouldn’t surprise me at all to see the 12-inch MacBook disappear from Apple’s online and retail stores after the remaining stock sells out, late this year or early in 2019. Apple would seem to be filling pretty much all of its needs with a mid-range Air and high-end Pro. Apple could redesign the MacBook yet again, delivering a sub-$1000 Apple laptop. And they could use one, or at least cash-strapped Apple fans could.

The older MacBook Air design, sans Retina display and with a three-year-old processor, is. One dollar under, to be precise. Don’t hold out hope for the return of a sub-$1000 MacBook. But something tells me that in the age of $1500 iPhones, Apple’s not going to worry about the lower part of the laptop market too much. If you want an Apple computer for less than the average mortgage payment, they. Then you can make the same “what’s a computer?” joke every tech journalist made on Twitter yesterday.

Brewing is easy. If you can make mac and cheese from a box without help, you can make beer. NOTE: This is a basic overview for brewing an.

To learn about all-grain brewing, The 4 Basic Steps:. 1. Gather your equipment. You'll need:.

Kettle. Fermenter + Air Lock.

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Funnel (optional). Sanitizer.

Auto-Siphon. Stir Spoon. Recipe Kit (or individual ingredients) If gathering all of that sounds like too much work, all in one box.

2. Sanitize, Sanitize, Sanitize. Your success will rely on how clean your equipment is. Anything that comes in contact with your beer after the boil process should be sanitized. PBW and Star San are great santizers. Steep Grains. Fill your 5-gallon brew kettle with 2.5 gallons of water. As you heat your water, steep your grains for 20 minutes, or until your water reaches 170 degrees.

Tsuna's Blog: Hardware Growler For Mac Free

When you remove your grains, let the water drip out of the grain bag and into the kettle. Don't squeeze your grain bag as you don't want to extract tannins, which may give your beer unwanted flavors. Bring kettle to a boil, remove from heat, and add malt extracts. Be careful not to boil over.

Hops are added at various intervals. Refer to your exact recipe as to when you need to add hops to your boil. You now have wort - sugar water. Cool your wort by bringing the temperature down as quickly as possible. This can be done one of two ways:. Set your pot in a sink filled with ice water. Use a wort chiller: Insert chiller into your wort. Run cold water from your tap through the chiller and out to the sink. A wort chiller is the most effective way, but either will get you the desired results.

Don't forget to sanitize all your supplies! Then. Pour cooled wort into fermenter.

Some pots even have a valve for easy transportation from your kettle to your fermenter. Add water to bring the level to 5 gallons.

Aerate wort by splashing it around in its container. Yeast need oxygen, and splashing your wort will help. Dry yeast is the easiest, as you don't have to prepare it beforehand.

Sanitize the yeast pack + scissors, cut the corner off the yeast pack, and pour the yeast into the fermenter. Seal your fermenter, add an air lock, and store in a dark, cool place.

Ales should stay at 68 degrees to ferment properly. After fermentation is complete, typically within two weeks, it's time to bottle your beer. Cleanse everything: bottles, bottle filler, bottle caps, bottling bucket, and any transfer hoses used. Use a bottle brush on your bottles.

Boil your priming sugar in 16 oz of water. After it cools, add it directly to the bottling bucket. Transfer your beer.

Siphon the beer out of your fermenter and into your bottling bucket. Leave as much sediment in the fermenter as possible. Fill the bottles. Attach bottle filler to hose, and hose to bottling bucket spigot. Open the bottling bucket spigot and push the bottle filler to the bottom of the bottle. NOTE: Fill each bottle right to the top. When you remove the bottle filler, it will leave the perfect amount of space at the top of the bottle.

Cap the bottles with caps and a capper. 7. Store the bottles at room temperature for roughly two weeks. This gives your beer time to carbonate.